Two special pearl commissions

Most of the pearl pieces we make on a daily basis are to us somewhat routine. We know the most popular sizes, lengths and styles and these account for probably 95% of what we ship on a weekly basis. But those that really know us also know that we love to create special pieces. Lately these have been pieces created from unique pearls Hisano and I find while pearl hunting in Asia, but often they are pieces that are a new take on the traditional.

This week we received two such commissions. The first was for a special Tahitian pearl strand and the second was for a very particular style of white South Sea.

This Tahitian strand is special. The request was 36 inches, AAA quality, straight-sized without graduation, exotic colors and matched across as closely as possible – the latter being the most difficult part of all, and one we called upon friends in Tahiti for a bit of assistance. Matching exotic colors across is the near equivalent of 36 inches of paired, exotic Tahitians.

36 inches of exotic Tahitian pearls

The result is one dramatic strand of incredibly exotic Tahitian pearls.  These colors are the reason I love working with Tahitians.

An exotic Tahitian pearl rope

36 inches of exotic, 11-12 mm Tahitian pearls

The second special strand is one that I handled personally this week. A customer in Australia asked our assistance in creating a special white South Sea strand for his 25th anniversary. He wanted the piece to be very special, so we decided to create a strand out of our loose pearl inventory – the pearls we set aside for rings, earrings and pendants. As I blogged about last year, this is the way to create the perfect strand.

But simply matching a South Sea strand out of loose grade pearls is not something terribly out of the ordinary for us. What makes this strand so different is the graduation.

We were discussing possible graduations (going minimum or dramatic) and I mentioned how dramatic the graduation was in the necklace featured in The Dark Man Rises. I remembered Ashley of Pure Pearls recently blogged about one, combining freshwater pearls with white South Sea. We decided to give it a shot – using only white South Sea pearls.

The resulting strand is a perfect 8.5 to 13.1 mm strand of top-grade selected pearls. We finished the necklace with a gold clasp engraved with a special, 25th anniversary message and it’s now headed over the pond tonight.

graduated white South Sea strand

A perfect strand of graduated white South Sea pearls

Just in case you missed it! Google Hangout pearl chat part 3!

Our friend Cynde drove up today for another live Pearl Chat at Pearl Paradise! There are some amazing new finds in today’s video, including a full explanation of a BRAND NEW type of Tahitian pearl that is just making its way to the United States!

Enjoy the show!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odBb8zFuX_I#t=10

Spring Summer Pearl Lookbook 2014

We are excited to complete another successful Spring/Summer set of collections. It was a strenuous project juggling Pearl Paradise designs along with our sister site Pearl Collective, but we were able to complete them just in time for our PR editorial event in New York. We were able to create four collections this season.

The Encircled Collection was designed and created by John. He focused his design on the deep ridges or indented lines that are prominent in baroque Tahitian pearls. He started experimenting with texturing thin flattened wire and created these designs. It is a very meticulous process since each band is fitted specifically to a pearl.

The Encircled necklace above was was pulled for a request by Real Simple magazine and is now on the cover of April issue! It’s hiding down there in the lower right corner but it’s there!

 

Jeremy and I found some wide baroque Freshwater pearl strands at one of our buying trips in Hong Kong. The subtle creases and dimples on the pearls interest me and I gathered small prong set diamonds on posts and sprinkled them onto the pearls. The small points that were created by the diamonds looked like constellation so I named it the Celestial Collection. I love the combination of subtle diamonds and big pearls!

The Prima Collection was designed for everyday wear. We wanted to showcase that everyday pearls don’t have to be generic white strand of pearls. The simulated Turquoise nucleated carved pearls are set on simple settings and yet have so much presence. The large Edison pearls are fun to wear when you want something large and bold. Our classic Tahitian styles are still our best sellers every year.

The Link Collection is something I’ve wanted to make for awhile. I found onyx and agate hand carved links at the Hong Kong show and immediately wanted to play with them. The jet black onyx works perfectly with the dark green Tahitians and the white agate complimented soft lavenders of soufflé pearls. I also wanted to make contrasting bold necklaces using the largest onyx links and the large white Freshwater baroques.

Below is the link to our lookbook:

PP LOOKBOOK SS14-small

Enjoy!

Nontraditional Tahitian pearl pairing that works

Baroque Tahitian pearls are among my favorites. The best tend to have colors and combinations of colors within individual pearls that are nearly impossible to achieve with traditional rounds. The uniqueness of each pearl means that a full strand can never be perfectly duplicated (hence the need for individual photographs) and pairs are very difficult to make.

A good customer reached out to me earlier in the month and asked me to find a pair of Tahitians on the smaller side that had amazing colors. While I could have selected something extra special from the rounds, my first thought was to suggest a pair of drops or baroques. We had just finished separating a large lot of Tahitian pearls for the holiday season and I had set a few special lots aside.

Baroque Tahitian pearls with intense colors

My suggestion of using colorful baroque pearls was well-received but created a dilemma; she only wore stud earrings and drops and circled pearls are traditionally set onto dangle settings. We decided to try something more nontraditional and find pairs that would work set as studs.

An intense blue-green pair and a super-peacock pair.

Blue Green and Super Peacock Tahitian pearl baroque pairs

A pair with color so intense, the oil-slick effect is visible on the pearls

Oil slick peacock colors on a Tahitian pearl

I ended up matching a couple of pairs of drops too, and while the colors were striking, I had to recommend going with one of the less symmetrical pairs.

Given that her two favorite colors are blue and green she opted for the first pair. I love the result.

Baroque Tahitian pearls set as traditional stud earrings

The real art of making Tahitian pearl strands

A loose lot of undrilled Tahitian pearls

As I blogged about in June of this year, there are two ways pearl dealers are able to source Tahitian and South sea pearls; either in finished strands or loose pearl lots. When selecting finished strands, dealers purchase just what they need without making a large investment or having to work with the pearls … and pay a hefty premium. When dealers purchase lots, they have to separate, grade, match and drill in order to create strands.

Since 2007, we almost exclusively purchase loose lots to create our Tahitian strands and jewelry from scratch. The primary reason is we prefer to use  ”A/B lots.” These lots are a mix of pearls that have one to zero spots that drill and set clean or set clean face up – very close to perfect . It’s nearly impossible to find finished strands like this from pearl wholesalers (primarily located in Japan) because C and D grades are considered “necklace material.” A/B lots are sold loose – for use in earrings, pendants and rings. They are essentially the cream of the crop.

At the September Hong Kong show, Hisano and I purchased several lots from a broker and a producer from Tahiti. Shortly after returning to Los Angeles, another farmer/friend from Tahiti came with a single, large lot of round, circle and drop Tahitian pearls. These lots combined are the pearls we are sorting and turning into strands for the upcoming holiday season. Because we typically only do this twice per year, I’ve decided to document the process here.

To begin with, we start with a lot of loose, undrilled pearl lots.

Thousands of loose pearls from Tahiti in separated lots

The first step in the process is the separation. This process took us nearly a week.

All the pearls must be sorted by their different attributes

Hisano works on sorting out the pearls by color for strands.

Sorting the Tahitians by color

Not all “black Tahitians” are really black. Some are naturally pistachio and others are blue green.

Natrual color pistachio and blue-green Tahitian pearls

My job was examining every single pearl and separating them into surface quality categories. This can be very tedious work because some spots may be smaller than a pin prick. But each spot counts, so each has to be counted.

Examining each individual pearl looking for any surface blemishing

The next step is separating out all the round Tahitian pearls that we’ll need this season for earrings, pendants and rings. We select by color and overtone, and as you can see, the color differences can be quite subtle.

The pearls must finally be drilled and matched onto temporary strings. From here, they will be graded once again, individually photographed one-by-one, and then added to the website over the course of the next two weeks.

Examining the first drilled and matched strands of Tahitians

If we did our jobs right, each strand will have its own unique color combination and character. Very few other pearls cover such an array of dazzling colors.

Circled and drop-shaped Tahitian strands

A few strands of circled and drop-shaped Tahitians with intense colors

Silver-peacock drop strands

Drop strands with lighter body colors and beautiful, subtle overtones

Round Tahitian Strands

Round Tahitian strands showing off the tremendous color range

Colors can be so subtle, every strand needs its own individual photo.